call of the jungle

the jungle, it beckons

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jurassic

Mikala Jones. The land of towering trees.

deep

If you're wondering...he made it. Mikala Jones, glassy morning barrel.

end of the day

Raju and Blacky walking out.

moonrise

Tonyo, end of the day, always stoked. Super 16mm film frames.

peace

Blacky's board.

bleronk

Bleronk. Bolex Super 16mm film frame.

Shankar, a surfer from India said to me, "You know, anytime I see these guys, they are smiling! I ride by on my bike, they are smiling, I see them out in the water, they are smiling." He was really blown away by this. This local crew in Bali is having fun just about all the time. It's why they are so fun to surf with,and so fun to film with. It looks like he is smiling to me here in this frame. He might be gritting his teeth, but chances are, with Bleronk, he's smiling.

paradise

Tonyo at the circus.

monster of the deep pt 2

We had taken a day trip, and it ended up being a lot flatter than we expected. I gave the local guys my paint markers, and they covered their boards pretty quick. I guess they liked the squid, because a few of them started drawing their own tentacled monsters. They kept looking back to my housing for reference. This is Sablar drawing here.

the high line

Daniel Jones. 5 fin Bonzer.

grey

Bleronk on this one. This was the last wave I shot of this session. Light rain, ominous skies, and fairly glassy. While Bleronk and crew kept getting slotted, I kept getting pounded to the shallow sand bar/reef bottom by these little barrels. Pretty much after every good set the current would drag me away, I'd have to swim in, then work my way back over to Diah and the boys. Diah, a young gal from Seminyak surfs out here, and this was her first time trying it at really low tide.

wallpaper

Click on the image to enlarge + right click + save, if you'd like this as a wallpaper. Its 1650 pixels wide.

Dylan Amar, local surfer from Padma, Bali. Bolex Rx-5 Super 16mm film frame sequence. Honestly, no correlation here other than Dylan getting barreled, and the look on his face there as he paddles back....but this sequence reminded me of something I saw scribbled on a guard rail in Hawaii a few years ago: under the lip and smokin the crip.

dylan

This is Dylan Amar, from Padma, Bali. I filmed a lot with Dylan last year, usually while filming with Tonyo and Bleronk, and Blacky, and a bunch of their other friends. They're usually all surfing together. This was such a fun session to be in the water. It was absolutely perfect. The water was so clear this day, diving under the waves with my eyes open...it looked so amazing with the sun shining through. And feeling the power of the wave while diving under, just escaping the lip coming down. Feeling the the entire ocean around me move through. As I would dive under I could feel all the momentum of the water leading up towards the lip of the wave, pitching out into a barrel. To be right there, and to become part of that movement, eyes wide open in such clear water, it was one of the best experiences I've had in the ocean. Its hard to put this into words really. It feels supernatural almost.

swell

blacky

Blacky, from Legian, Bali.